The Hermès Birkin 35 Special Order (HSS) Braise & Black Lisse Crocodile Porosus with Gold Hardware



The Hermès Birkin 35 Special Order in Braise and Black Lisse (shiny) Porosus crocodile with gold hardware represents the absolute pinnacle of exclusivity within the Hermès universe. As a bi-color Special Order crafted from one of the rarest exotic leathers, this bag exists at the intersection of master craftsmanship, material rarity, and collector prestige.

The Special Order (HSS) Status

The term "HSS" refers to the horseshoe stamp—a discreet imprint placed on the bag to signify its Special Order (SO) status . This stamp is more than a marking; it is a symbol of elite clientele status. Special Orders are only offered to Hermès' most loyal and valued customers, and the number granted to each store is strictly limited . For serious collectors, a bag bearing the horseshoe stamp is considered exceptionally rare, regardless of whether it was acquired directly from the owner or on the resale market . It effectively places the owner within the unofficial "Hermès Horseshoe Club" .

The bi-color (multico) configuration is one of three color combinations available for a Special Order . For this specific bag, the design features:

  • Primary color (Braise): The body, base, and flap 

  • Secondary color (Noir/Black): The handles, sangles (side straps), sides, clochette, lock, and piping 

  • Interior: Black leather lining 

This dramatic contrast between the vibrant red body and the jet-black trim creates a striking, theatrical aesthetic that is both bold and timeless .

The Material: Lisse (Shiny) Porosus Crocodile

Porosus crocodile is widely considered the most prestigious exotic leather used by Hermès . Sourced from the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), it is lauded for its smaller, more symmetrical scales and more uniform pattern compared to other crocodilian leathers like Niloticus . This symmetrical scaling gives the bag a refined, orderly appearance that is highly prized by connoisseurs.

The Lisse (shiny) finish is achieved through a meticulous hand-buffing process using an agate stone, which draws out the leather's natural oils to create a fabulous mirror-like, almost glassy finish . This glossy surface works exceptionally well with rich, saturated colors like Braise, making the red appear even more vibrant and luminous. The finish is distinct from the matte option, offering a more formal and dramatic aesthetic.

A bag crafted from Porosus crocodile is marked with a circumflex symbol (^) next to the Hermès stamp , serving as an additional mark of authenticity and origin.

The Color Combination: Braise & Noir (Black)

Braise is a rich, vibrant lipstick red that is among the most coveted colors for exotic leather Birkins . It is a saturated, warm red that commands attention and is particularly prized on shiny crocodile, where the gloss amplifies the color's depth and intensity.

Noir (Black) serves as the perfect counterpoint. Black is the single most liquid color for Hermès bags—it sells fastest and retains 95-105% of its purchase price, making it the ultimate classic . When used as a secondary color for the handles, sangles, and piping, it grounds the vibrant Braise, providing structure and contrast that enhances the overall design.

Gold Hardware (GHW)

The gold-plated hardware offers a warm, luxurious contrast to both the red body and the black trim. The gold tone of the turn-lock closure, protective feet, and clochette elevates the bag's formal elegance and creates a classic luxury aesthetic. On the secondary market, this combination typically commands a premium due to its timeless appeal.

The Birkin 35 Format

The 35cm size is the original and most classic format of the Birkin bag . Introduced in the 1980s for style icon Jane Birkin, the 35cm version was designed to be a practical, everyday carryall .

Rarity and Market Value

The combination of factors in this bag creates a rarity that is reflected in its substantial market value:

  1. Special Order Status: The horseshoe stamp itself commands a 40-80% premium on the resale market .

  2. Bi-Color Exotic: Two-tone exotic leather special orders are produced in extremely limited quantities.

  3. Porosus Crocodile: This is the most sought-after exotic skin, with prices starting significantly higher than other crocodile varieties .

  4. Braise Color: Braise is among the most coveted colors for exotic leather bags .

Market data confirms the premium commanded by this specification. One example from a luxury reseller is listed at $125,675** . Auction estimates for similar pieces range from **$100,000 to $110,000 . This reflects the fact that the bag outperforms many traditional investments, with Birkins historically returning 14.2% annually, compared to gold's 1.5% and stocks' 8.7% .

What's Included

A complete example of this bag typically includes:

  • Lock, keys, and clochette

  • Sleeper/dustbag

  • Signature Hermès box and ribbon 

CITES and Shipping Considerations

It is important to note that items crafted from protected species like Porosus crocodile are subject to CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) regulations . These require special licenses for export, import, or both, and international shipping may not be permitted even with proper paperwork . This regulatory complexity further contributes to the exclusive nature of these bags.

Conclusion

The Hermès Birkin 35 Special Order in Braise and Black Lisse Porosus crocodile with gold hardware is a masterpiece that embodies everything a serious collector could desire. Its rare bi-color design, the prestige of the horseshoe stamp, the luminescent beauty of shiny Porosus crocodile, and the timeless appeal of gold hardware combine to create one of the most covetable and investment-worthy bags in the modern Hermès canon. For the collector who attains it, the bag represents not just a fashion accessory, but a tangible asset in a class of its own.

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