The Hermès Special Order Birkin 35: A Study in Braise & Black



The Hermès Birkin is the ultimate symbol of luxury, but within its storied history, the Special Order (HSS) Birkin occupies a tier of exclusivity reserved for the maison's most elite clientele. The Special Order Birkin 35 in Lisse (Shiny) Porosus Crocodile, featuring a Braise body and Black accents with Gold Hardware, is a breathtaking example of this bespoke service. This article provides a detailed examination of this exceptional piece, exploring its design, materials, craftsmanship, and significance to collectors.

What is an HSS Birkin? The Horseshoe Stamp of Exclusivity

HSS stands for "Horseshoe Stamp Special Order," a designation that marks a bag as a custom creation made through Hermès's coveted special-order program . The horseshoe stamp—a small, embossed symbol located to the left of the Hermès stamp inside the bag—is the hallmark of this exclusive service.

The HSS program is an honor reserved for only the maison's most loyal VIP clients . These collectors are invited to create a unique bag by selecting specific colors, leathers, and hardware combinations not typically available in standard production . The bespoke creations can take months or even years to arrive. The horseshoe stamp itself is a value driver, signaling the client's allocation history and the bag's bespoke specification . For collectors, owning an HSS bag is considered the ultimate status symbol .

Design & Specifications: The Birkin 35

The bag features the classic Birkin 35 dimensions, measuring approximately 35 x 28 x 18 cm (14" x 11" x 7"), with a handle drop of about 5 inches . This size offers a substantial canvas for showcasing the luxurious materials and the striking color combination.

The design showcases the classic Birkin elements, including two rolled leather handles for hand or crook-of-the-arm carry and a flap top secured by the signature turn-lock closure . Protective base studs shield the bag from damage when placed on surfaces 

This is a "lipstick red and jet black" combination, evoking a dramatic and timeless appeal .

Material Analysis: Lisse Porosus Crocodile

The choice of Lisse (Shiny) Porosus Crocodile is the defining feature of this bag, representing the highest echelon of Hermès exotic skins.

  • Porosus Crocodile: This leather comes from the Crocodylus porosus, a saltwater crocodile native to Southeast Asia and Australia . It is lauded for its smaller and more symmetrical scale patterning, which is considered the most prestigious and aesthetically desirable of all crocodile skins . Each scale features a characteristic tiny pore, giving the species its name .

  • Lisse (Shiny) Finish: The "Lisse" finish is achieved through a meticulous, artisanal process where the skin is hand-buffed with agate stones to create a natural, mirror-like gloss . No varnish or coating is used, resulting in a brilliant, high-gloss shine that highlights the natural beauty and texture of the scales . This finish is a hallmark of formal, show-stopping luxury.

  • Hermès Exotic Skin Markings: Hermès stamps its exotic bags with symbols to identify the species. Porosus crocodile is denoted by a circumflex symbol (^) next to the Hermès logo .

Hardware: The Warmth of Gold

The use of Gold Hardware (GHW) is a critical design element that elevates the bag's dramatic aesthetic. The polished gold offers a brilliant, warm glow that provides a luxurious contrast to the vibrant Braise red and the jet-black accents . This combination is considered the quintessential "black-tie" Hermès.

Rarity and Secondary Market Value

This Special Order Birkin is an exceptionally rare piece. The combination of the HSS horseshoe stamp, the Porosus Crocodile leather, the Braise and Black bi-color scheme, and the Gold Hardware creates a perfect storm of collectibility factors.

The secondary market value reflects its extraordinary status. Examples in "Like New" condition with protective plastic still on the hardware command premium prices

These valuations align with Sotheby's market insights, which note that recent Birkin 35s and 40s in exotic leather trade between $20,000 and $40,000 , with rare HSS and Porosus combinations reaching significantly higher figures. As one seller notes, exotic works of art could become even more scarce should more luxury brands follow the trend of banning exotic skins .

Conclusion

The Hermès Special Order Birkin 35 in Lisse Porosus Crocodile with a Braise body, Black accents, and Gold Hardware is a masterpiece of luxury craftsmanship. It represents the convergence of several key elements of collectibility: the exclusivity of the HSS horseshoe stamp, the prestige of Porosus Crocodile, the dramatic and timeless bi-color palette, and the elegance of gold hardware. For the discerning collector, this bag is not merely an accessory but a significant investment and a piece of Hermès history that embodies the pinnacle of the maison's artistry.

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