The Special Order HSS Birkin 35: Braise & Black Lisse Porosus Crocodile with Gold Hardware



The Hermès Special Order (HSS) Birkin 35 in Braise and Black Lisse Porosus Crocodile with Gold Hardware stands at the pinnacle of the maison's offerings. It is a piece that combines the ultimate in rarity—the coveted horseshoe stamp—with the most prestigious of exotic leathers and a dramatic, theatrical color combination.

1. The HSS Distinction: The Horseshoe Stamp

The term HSS (often understood as "Special Order" or "Hors Série Spécial") is not merely a label; it is a hallmark of ultimate exclusivity . Bags bearing this distinction are custom-designed creations, made to the exact specifications of Hermès' most elite clientele, and feature a special horseshoe stamp to signify this .

  • The Process: This service is by invitation only, offered to top collectors who have cultivated a significant relationship with the brand . The process involves choosing the style, leathers, hardware, and color combinations . Once finalized, the creation is handcrafted by Hermès artisans, a process that can take from six months to over three years .

  • The Value: The small horseshoe stamp, found next to the Hermès logo inside the bag, significantly increases its value and collectibility . As Christie's notes, these custom-made bags are considered the ultimate status symbol .

2. The Exotic Canvas: Lisse Porosus Crocodile

The choice of Porosus Crocodile places this bag in the highest tier of Hermès' leather hierarchy.

  • Rarity and Prestige: Sourced from the saltwater Crocodylus porosus of Australia and Southeast Asia, the skin is characterized by its small, symmetrical, and square scale pattern . It is lauded for its smaller scale pattern, making it the most desirable of the exotic skins .

  • The Lisse Finish: The high-gloss "Lisse" or shiny finish is achieved through a traditional method of buffing the leather with an agate stone, creating a glass-like sheen . This mirror-like finish enhances the depth of color but is more delicate, with pristine examples commanding a premium due to the difficulty of maintaining this finish .

  • Hallmark Stamps: The Porosus leather is identified by a caret symbol (^) adjacent to the Hermès stamp, distinguishing it from other species such as Alligator (square) or Niloticus (two dots) .

3. The Color Palette: Braise & Black

The color pairing of Braise and Black is a bold and striking choice, evocative of the dramatic allure of theater .

  • Braise: A rich, vibrant "lipstick red," Braise commands immediate attention and serves as the primary color for the body, base, and flap of the bag .

  • Black: The deep, jet-black shade is used for the striking contrast elements of the bag, specifically the handles, sangles (side straps), sides, clochette (key holder), lock, and piping . This creates a powerful, high-contrast aesthetic that is both timeless and captivating .

4. The Hardware: Gold's Opulent Contrast

The Gold Hardware (GHW) is the ideal complement to this dramatic color story.

  • Warm Contrast: The warm, golden tones of the hardware create a stunning, classic contrast against the cool black and the vibrant red, elevating the bag's formality and prestige.

  • A Timeless Choice: The combination of black and gold is frequently cited as the "Holy Grail" of classic Hermès exotic bags, a foundational piece for any high-level collection .

5. The Classic Size: Birkin 35

With approximate dimensions of 35 x 25 x 18 cm (14" x 11" x 7"), the Birkin 35 is the functional and original workhorse size .

  • Spacious Capacity: This size offers substantial capacity, suitable for daily use or travel, making it a practical yet ultra-luxurious statement piece .

  • Interior Detail: The interior is lined in black leather, featuring a zip pocket and a slip pocket for practical organization .

6. Market Value and Investment

This specific HSS configuration is a "blue-chip" asset with exceptional investment potential .

  • Pricing: Due to its rarity and desirability, examples command a significant premium. A like-new example has been listed for $125,675** , and auction estimates have ranged between **$100,000 and $110,000 . It is one of the most sought-after combinations on the secondary market.

7. Acquisition and Care

  • Accessibility: This bag is an ultra-rare find, virtually impossible for a new client to obtain directly. It is primarily acquired through major auction houses or established luxury resellers .

  • CITES Regulations: As the bag contains Porosus crocodile, it is subject to strict CITES regulations, requiring appropriate export and import permits for international travel .

  • Maintenance: Shiny crocodile requires careful storage in its dust bag away from direct sunlight and humidity. The high-gloss finish is more susceptible to visible marks and should be entrusted to professional specialists for cleaning.

Conclusion

The Hermès Special Order Birkin 35 in Braise and Black Lisse Porosus Crocodile with Gold Hardware is the ultimate acquisition for the discerning collector. It represents the convergence of the rarest materials, the exclusive HSS provenance, and a powerful, sophisticated color story. It is not merely a handbag, but a tangible piece of fashion history and a cornerstone of any serious luxury collection.

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