The Special Order (HSS) Birkin 35: Braise & Black Lisse Porosus Crocodile with Gold Hardware



In the rarefied world of Hermès, a Special Order (HSS) bag represents the ultimate expression of exclusivity and personal taste. When that order is rendered in the dramatic, high-contrast combination of Braise and Black, crafted from the most precious of exotic leathers and finished with gleaming gold hardware, the result is nothing short of breathtaking. This is a creation that commands attention—a piece that evokes the dramatic allure of theater, blending bold, vibrant color with the profound depth of jet black .

The HSS Horseshoe Stamp: A Mark of Ultimate Distinction

The "HSS" designation is defined by a small horseshoe stamp placed beside the Hermès logo . This stamp is the ultimate hallmark of a bag that has been custom-ordered by a client and is reserved for the maison's most loyal and elite clientele . This level of exclusivity ensures that HSS bags are among the most highly prized and collectible pieces in the Hermès repertoire.

The privilege of placing a Special Order is not extended to every customer. It is typically reserved for those who have cultivated a substantial purchase history and have been personally invited by their sales associate . Once an order is placed, the bag is handcrafted from start to finish by a single artisan, ensuring a level of bespoke craftsmanship that standard production pieces cannot match.

The Color Palette: Braise and Black – A Dramatic Contrast

The combination of Braise and Black is a masterclass in high-contrast design . This two-tone color scheme is a signature feature of many Special Orders, allowing the client to create a bag that is uniquely their own.

Braise is a rich, vibrant lipstick red—a color of undeniable passion and power that commands attention with its warmth and intensity . The Black serves as its perfect foil, providing a grounding contrast and an air of timeless sophistication. The result is a bag that is both bold and elegant, capable of making a statement while remaining eternally classic.

The placement of these colors is particularly artful. The bag features a Braise red body, base, and flap, while the black appears on the handles, sangles (straps), sides, clochette, lock, and piping . This thoughtful distribution creates a cohesive and balanced design that allows both colors to shine.

The Leather: Lisse Porosus Crocodile – The Pinnacle of Exotic Luxury

Porosus Crocodile is considered the most precious and rare of Hermès' exotic leathers. Sourced from the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), it is distinguished by its smaller and more symmetrical scale pattern, creating an appearance of refined uniformity and exceptional elegance .

The Lisse (or shiny) finish elevates this exotic leather to new heights of opulence. The high-gloss sheen creates a mirror-like surface that reflects light beautifully, enhancing the richness of the Braise and Black colors. A subtle circumflex (^) symbol stamped next to the Hermès logo identifies genuine Porosus Crocodile .

This is the leather that sits at the very top of the Hermès hierarchy, reserved for the most discerning clientele and commanding the highest prices. As one auction house noted, Porosus Crocodile is "lauded for its smaller and symmetrical scale patterning," making it "the most sought after leather you can find" .

Gold Hardware: The Warm Embrace

The choice of Gold Hardware is what makes this combination truly sing. The gleaming, warm-toned metal of the turnlock, sangles, padlock, and keys creates a stunning visual interplay against the vibrant red and deep black of the crocodile.

Gold Hardware provides a classic, opulent warmth that perfectly complements the richness of the Braise color. It adds a layer of vintage charm and enduring luxury, elevating the bag from a mere accessory to a true heirloom piece.

The Birkin 35: A Commanding Presence

The Birkin 35 offers dimensions of approximately 35cm (14 inches) in width, 25cm to 28cm (10 to 11 inches) in height, and 18cm (7 inches) in depth . This size provides a generous interior capacity, making it an ideal statement piece for work, travel, or a day of errands, while retaining the iconic, structured silhouette that makes a Birkin instantly recognizable.

Investment and Collectibility

The HSS Birkin 35 in Braise and Black Porosus Crocodile with Gold Hardware occupies a rare position in the luxury market. These pieces are documented in the secondary market at significant values:

  • One listing for this exact specification was offered at $125,675 .

  • A similar HSS Braise and Black Birkin 35 was estimated at auction between $100,000 and $110,000 .

  • The Braise color, in particular, is noted as being among the "most coveted" shades for Shiny Niloticus crocodile .

The infrequency of secondary market listings—these pieces are held by collectors who understand the handcraft premium and rarely part with them—only adds to their mystique.

Conclusion

The Special Order (HSS) Birkin 35 in Braise and Black Lisse Porosus Crocodile with Gold Hardware is far more than a handbag; it is a work of art. It represents the pinnacle of Hermès craftsmanship, the prestige of a Special Order, and the unparalleled beauty of the world's most coveted exotic leather. It is a piece designed for the collector who understands that true luxury lies not just in ownership, but in the story that the piece tells—a story of drama, passion, and the most exquisite taste.

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